By essence and inspiration, a perfumer is a true illusionist. They “play” with our senses, awaken the imagination, and rekindle memories. In their hands, raw materials come to life through the harmonisation of notes. A detail of Nature, the sweetness of a fruit or the radiance of a flower that once went unnoticed is now revealed and elevated through creation, transforming the invisible into something vibrant.
In 1919, Jacques Guerlain revolutionised perfumery by creating Mitsouko, a velvety-textured fruity chypre that evoked the softness of peach skin. Surprisingly, the fruit was not part of the composition but was recreated through a masterful olfactory illusion. This unique sensation was made possible thanks to aldehyde C-14, an innovative synthetic ingredient discovered in 1908. As a pioneer, Jacques Guerlain was the first to use it, paving the way for countless iconic fragrances. In 2025, Guerlain revisits the peach and elevates it to the realm of art with Pêche Mirage, a creation by Delphine Jelk, the house’s creative director and perfumer, in the latest piece of the L’Art et la Matière collection.
For this collection, Delphine Jelk works with unexpected contrasts, blending raw materials into surprising accords, such as the play of light and shadow between neroli and smoked tea in Néroli Outrenoir, or the addictive fusion of raw leather and vanilla in Cuir Béluga. Pêche Mirage follows this same philosophy: an intense and enveloping perfume that balances the fruit’s succulence with the depth of leather.
Peach is a true olfactory marvel. To the touch, its skin reveals a range of nuances, from fresh and tangy to sweet and crystallised. However, it is impossible to extract its scent directly to create a pure essence. Even today, to incorporate it into a fragrance, its note must be reconstructed with synthetic molecules. Following in Jacques Guerlain’s footsteps with aldehyde C-14 in Mitsouko, Delphine Jelk turns to a new synthetic ingredient: Melbatone. A product of green chemistry, this molecule amplifies the peach’s sensory richness, from its juicy pulp to the delicacy of its velvety skin.
Pêche Mirage is an ode to captivating fruity notes. The first impression is voluptuous and vibrant, with a juicy peach enhanced by the boldness of saffron and blackcurrant. As the fragrance evolves, the fruit’s liveliness softens, finding a new balance with the leather of osmanthus. At the heart of the perfume, this sensory tension between fruit and leather becomes palpable, revealing a sensuality akin to a second skin. The intense and addictive trail lingers, warmed by sandalwood and amber tincture, as the fruity accord plunges into amber depths.
To celebrate this creation, Guerlain invited visual artist Charles Pétillon for a special collaboration. Known for his ethereal installations of white balloons, Pétillon gives shape to the invisible, exploring the relationship between matter and perception. For Pêche Mirage, the artist conceived an aerial balloon sculpture that translates the essence of the fragrance: a cloud of perfumed molecules suspended in the air. This poetic vision extends to the perfume’s special edition, with its collectable box in sky blue, evoking a sky where balloons float freely. Additionally, the bottle’s cap is adorned with a ceramic plaque that echoes the delicacy of the artistic installation, perpetuating the poetry of the perfume in its most tangible form.
“Though invisible, perfume evokes deep emotions and memories. Charles Pétillon’s works make it visible. It is a way of materialising the trail”, says Delphine Jelk.
