Graduated from the Instituto Superior de Agronomia, Tiago Macena specializes in Viticulture and Enology. After internships in Portugal and Australia, he is now responsible for wine brands in the Dão, Douro, and Alentejo regions, and soon, in the Setúbal Peninsula. His relentless pursuit of excellence has led him to seek the title of Master of Wine, facing rigorous challenges and exams. Soon, he will be the first Portuguese to achieve this distinction, reserved only for the best in the wine industry.
How did your passion for the art of wine begin?
I believe this passion started in my childhood, although I wasn’t aware of it at the time. I’m from Guarda, and when there were no classes, I spent time in the countryside, either in the Mondego Valley or in Figueira do Castelo Rodrigo. My parents were teachers but had roots in agriculture, and it was under this influence that I grew up. This experience led me to enroll in the Instituto Superior de Agronomia, initially in Forest Engineering, but a visit to an agricultural fair in Paris made me switch to Agronomy, eventually specializing in Viticulture and Enology. The internships I completed reinforced this choice, showing me that I was on the right path.
Did you complete these internships in Portugal or abroad?
I interned with a small producer in Alenquer and at Taylor’s in the Douro. However, an opportunity took me to Australia, where I interned at Bleasdale Winery in Langhorne Creek. This experience was full of unique moments, exploring different wine styles, from sparkling to fortified wines, and working with completely new grape varieties. I was very eager to stay, but I had to return to Portugal to finish my course. In 2007, I started my professional career at Dão Sul, now Global Wines, where I also learned a lot.
Was it during this period that you became interested in the Master of Wine?
Yes, during my time at Dão Sul, I had the opportunity to closely follow clients and meet Clark Foyster, a Master of Wine. His extraordinary ability to interpret wine fascinated me. He spoke as if telling a story, identifying details like barrel aging time and the type of wood, something I had never witnessed before and which sparked my interest in the Master of Wine, leading me to seek more information and enroll in 2012.
What were the greatest challenges you faced during this demanding study?
The biggest challenges were, above all, accessing international wines and the rigor of the theoretical exam, in essay format, which was unfamiliar to me. Additionally, balancing study with professional and personal life was intense. The institute requires comprehensive knowledge of wine, which forced me to establish an extensive network of contacts and exchange information with candidates from around the world. Admission to the Institute of Masters of Wine requires training in enology or WSET – Wine & Spirit Education Trust certification, which is considered a preliminary course. This demonstrates the rigor and seriousness of the qualification process.
What stage are you currently at and what remains to be done?
Currently, I am in the third stage of the process. During the exams, which spanned four days, candidates face theoretical and practical challenges. Although I passed the theoretical part in 2019, I only successfully completed the practical exam in 2023. Now, I am focused on preparing the research paper, a crucial step to finalize the process, which requires drafting a research paper of up to ten thousand words based on something I consider important in the wine sector.
How do you see the evolution of wines in Portugal?
I believe it has been marked by the increasing availability of high-quality, exclusive, and niche wines. This trend reflects the dynamics of the market, which requires greater specialization and a premium approach to stand out. Our exclusive wines are attracting more and more consumers both nationally and internationally. However, it’s important to highlight that this niche market is not for everyone. It requires specific marketing efforts and special care in product presentation. Additionally, specialization is also reflected in production, with producers focusing on old vines and more elaborate winemaking techniques.
What is your opinion on the importance of choosing wines to pair with a gourmet menu, whether Michelin-starred or not?
To ensure that the pairing is truly surprising, it is essential to have a deep understanding of the products involved. In this sense, the role of the sommelier is crucial; they should act as an intermediary between the kitchen and the customer. I believe that the key to creating memorable pairing moments is ensuring the quality of the products, both in food and wine, and having someone capable of interpreting and perfectly integrating these elements, creating a harmonious and memorable experience for the customer.
Have you ever experienced an unexpected moment between a wine and a particular dish?
Yes, there was a rather unexpected occasion for me that served as a wake-up call to a new reality. It was when I tried a combination of a dish based on octopus, a cold salad, with a red wine that had been chilled. I was surprised because it worked very well. It was one of those “wow” moments that show us that we don’t always need to follow traditional rules. Sometimes, simplicity and openness to experimentation can lead to surprising discoveries.
What are you currently doing, besides preparing for the end of the Master of Wine?
I have a consulting company offering enology services. If people gather at home or in a hotel and wish to learn more or try something different, either for their company or for friends, I can advise them and provide my service in that regard. Additionally, I work with Adega Marel in Alentejo and am a partner in No Rules Wines, which is very innovative but maintains a great appreciation for tradition and sustainability.
What does wine represent to you?
Wine is a cultural product and a personal expression. If the same grape is grown in different places or the result is created by different winemakers, the final wine will not be the same, as it reflects each person’s personality and the characteristics of the terroir. Wine is part of a world of sharing, and a perfect day for me is being in the cellar, involved in a creation process that paves the way for impressive and irreverent wines.
