“The sun, the architecture, the music, and the dance: Marseille also has a very strong sense of freedom. I was inspired by the codes of its lifestyle, the everyday life, and all things that invite movement. The sea and the wind made me want to play with diving suits,” says Virginie Viard, the creative director of the French maison, in a brief explanation of her choices and inspirations.
Inspired by this sense of freedom, the Chanel Cruise 2024/25 show took place at MAMO, Centre d’art de la Cité Radieuse, in Marseille. The collection imagined by Virginie Viard combines an underwater dream with sun reflections through embroideries, diving hoods—seen on the jacket of an anise-green suit or the collar of dresses reminiscent of the 60s, as well as sequin jackets and swimsuits. Imbued with this spirit, inspired by the city, Virginie Viard elevates her Cruise collection to the realm of fantasy, imagining embroideries of small fish, fishing nets, shells, and crustaceans decorating dresses, suit jackets, vests, blouses, t-shirts, and small vests.
Meanwhile, on the surface, the silver reflections of the sun, the ripples, and shapes bring back memories of summer months spent by the pool. They appear in neoprene sweaters, tweeds, and sequin jackets; but there are more tweeds and jerseys, recovering the colors, checkered motifs, or geometric shapes of Marseille’s building facades, for instance, observed in a long dress, tunics, and even in the shapes of embroidered pockets.
In addition to the hood and snap buttons, the collection revisits the classic features of the sweatshirt, proposing its own version in chiffon with a fish print. Its kangaroo pocket appears in a sleeveless checkered dress with a hood and another dress with a hem. Embroidered braid running shorts, tweed cycling shorts, and oversized jackets complete a collection that embraces the dynamics of movement. The same wind of freedom blows over a white ruffled skirt and a dress with floral embroidery.
The pieces imagined for the beach include bloomers, panties, and dresses with side slits, waffle fabric skirts, or ivory lace corsets and broderie anglaise patchworks. The footwear includes flip-flops in plush fabric with platform soles.
The jackets with marked shoulders, in white or black and white, and the black patent shoes pay homage to men’s fashion. The collection also plays with layers: shirt collars, French cuffs, and jackets are worn over or under other coats and sets. The little black dress is revisited here with a jersey bodice with straps and the top of a swimsuit embroidered with small flowers.
“Marseille is a city that puts me in touch with my emotions. I tried to capture its allure, its breath of fresh air, and convey the energy that reigns there. And I couldn’t ask for a better setting for a fashion show than that of the cité radieuse.”
