Living in the mountains was a dream for Isabel Costa and her husband, João Tomás, upon retirement. But it hasn’t happened yet. Witnessing the near extinction of one of Portugal’s greatest heritage treasures, they turned their dream into a mission. They revived nearly forgotten craftsmanship and raised factories. The challenge led to the engagement of new generations in Manteigas, a village in Serra da Estrela, and the transformation of humble burel fabric into a luxury product.
What is the story behind the challenge of reviving burel fabric?
This is a story spanning almost two decades and didn’t start with burel but with the restoration of two spaces turned into boutique hotels, Casa de São Lourenço and Casa das Penhas Douradas. Burel Factory was born out of our commitment to preserving the indigenous and centuries-old products of Serra da Estrela. When we found Lanifícios Império factory, facing insolvency, we couldn’t let this grand legacy disappear. We restored 19th-century machines and, with the wisdom of the elderly and the energy of the youth, revived burel, which was on the brink of extinction. Our initial idea, mine and João Tomás’, was to retire and live in the mountains, but it hasn’t happened yet.
What exactly is burel?
It’s a traditional thick and robust fabric made solely from wool of native sheep. It’s one of Portugal’s treasures, deeply rooted in the history of Franciscans and Dominicans. This once poor and undervalued fabric is, in fact, a gem. Its simplicity hides a range of applications, versatile for acoustics, clothing, accessories, and more. We turned the humble into luxury, and that’s what makes burel special.
How do you maintain tradition and simultaneously adapt to the contemporary market?
Burel was reinvented by combining the artistry of Manteigas craftsmen with contemporary patterns and applications. This fusion results in unique pieces that carry tradition and innovation. The focus is on adding value to handmade products, impossible to mass-produce. Young designers bring functionality and innovation, keeping history alive in collections and patterns. The continuous exploration of possibilities results in highly impactful products.
You’ve also given new life to shepherding…
The relationship we cultivate with shepherds and the shearing process are essential to our mission. We carefully coordinate shearing, which is only a small fraction of what we consume, but it’s done with care and respect. We exclusively use national wools from various regions of the country, adapting our choice to the different types of fabrics we produce.
How is shearing done?
Shearing is a ritual that unfolds according to the sheep’s age order; it’s a celebration of tradition. In the shepherds’ pet sheep, we leave the tail tip unshorn, as a gesture of affection and distinction. As the wool is removed, the sheep seem to express deep relief and relaxation. This virtuous cycle is not just a tradition; it’s an act of love and gratitude to Nature and the shepherds who care for these creatures. The resulting wool from this care is used to create truly extraordinary products, keeping an important part of our cultural heritage alive.
What products do you manufacture, and what are they used for?
Burel Factory products cover various impactful areas. I highlight the three-dimensional use of burel in art installations, acoustics, and coatings, as well as its combination with noble woods in creating exclusive furniture. Decorative blankets are also significant. We’ve revived and reinvented old patterns, making them unique and inimitable. For tailoring fabrics, we work closely with national and international designers, resulting in very interesting pieces. We also have our clothing, bags, and accessories tailored in our stores in Lisbon and Porto. While we’ve received numerous awards, our greatest impact is felt in the community and the cultural legacy we preserve.
You mentioned that today’s burel is a luxury product…
Our current burel is considered a luxury product due to its authenticity and increasing value. Going through numerous manual processes that were disappearing, burel cannot be sold at low prices as it was in the past. The luxury lies in the unique wool and sheep breed, making it truly distinctive and singular. Protecting, valuing, and certifying these elements are our next steps. Anyone can make felted fabric, but they can’t make burel if not with specific sheep. What sets this fabric apart is the location and breed of the sheep.
What is your role in preserving Portugal’s traditional textile culture?
Burel Factory’s role in preserving traditional textile culture in Portugal is crucial. Our mission goes beyond creating high-quality products; it also involves passing on the knowledge and traditions accumulated over the years. We value authenticity and genuineness. Our commitment is to ensure that future generations have access to this wealth. We believe it is the responsibility of the state to support and foster these industries so they continue to be formative agents for young people. In addition to design innovation, our foundation is built on heritage preservation, ensuring that the history of our people is not lost and continues for many years.
