Several brands and designers incorporated brooches into their collections this year, adapting them to different concepts and styles, adorning coat lapels, highlighting the drapes of dresses, and featuring them in groups of jewelry pieces like crystalline and colorful bouquets. We saw this trend in the fashion shows of Dries Van Noten, Jil Sander, Issey Miyake, Gucci, and Erdem. The historic luxury accessory is now reinterpreted in alternative and contemporary versions or replicates some of the most richly designed, shaped, and colored brooches from the past.
The flying ladybug from Van Cleef & Arpels, adorned with floral motifs, is part of the Lucky Spring collection of the Maison, paying homage to spring, a season dear to the brand. In 18-carat pink gold, carnelian, and onyx.
Ever Blossom, from Louis Vuitton, in 18-carat yellow gold, glossy black onyx, and 57 brilliant diamonds, reinterprets the Monogram Flower, the emblem of the Maison. The back showcases open and delicate work, a signature of Louis Vuitton’s fine jewelry savoir-faire, expressed in bold lines and sculptural volumes in this piece.
The brooch from the Tilda’s Bow high jewellery collection by Graff offers a rich and feminine piece where various bows overlap and intertwine, studded with round and baguette-cut Tilda’s Bow diamonds, custom-made to fit every generous curve of this delicate piece.
Cartier’s Panthère Brooch, in white gold (750/1000), studded with 51 sapphires, two emerald eyes, an onyx nose, and 604 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 2.88 carats, is an iconic piece from the Maison that preserves its timeless and creative richness for various occasions.
Apollo, from Tiffany & Co., in 18-carat yellow gold and platinum with diamonds, is part of the visionary creations of Jean Schlumberger, recognized among the world’s most complex designs. Inspired by electrons orbiting an atom, this striking brooch features skillfully set round brilliant diamonds and impressive gold details.
Chaumet’s Lueurs d’Orage Brooch, in white and yellow gold, studded with a 7.40-carat oval-cut purple sapphire from Madagascar, a 4.14-carat cushion-cut purple sapphire from the same origin, and various other sapphires, onyx motifs, and brilliant-cut diamonds. This piece is part of the “Lueurs d’Orage” creations, capturing the metamorphosis of the sky through sculpted volumes, multiple settings, and subtle details.
From the century-old Japanese brand Mikimoto, known for its highly coveted collections, this piece is all about humor and the creation of small stories told with precious materials. It belongs to the “Wild and Wonderful” high jewelry collection, celebrating wild animals from the five continents. The brooch portrays the energy and dynamism of a parrot riding the wind. In 18-carat white and yellow gold, Golden South Sea cultured pearl, ruby, sapphire, Alexandrite, garnet, onyx, and diamond.
A creation from Chanel, inspired by the number 5, Gabrielle Chanel’s favorite number, serving as a precious lucky charm. The piece features 175 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 7.20 carats, set in white or beige gold.
The Pearl Octopuss.y 1932 brooches and anklet from Pearl Octopuss.y, a jewelry brand based in Oslo, known for its bold and eccentric visual universe. This multifunctional product can be divided into two different brooches and an anklet, made with various materials such as gold-plated Rondelle beads, black Rocaille beads, artificial pearls, and freshwater pearls.
By: Isabel Figueiredo