In a world where masculinity has almost always reigned supreme, a powerful light shone down Avenue Montaigne in Paris in July 2016, shattering stereotypes that limited women as creative directors at the city’s major fashion houses. That light was Maria Grazia Chiuri, an Italian designer who challenged industry paradigms by becoming the first woman to lead Christian Dior in its respectable 70-year history.
For Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri has developed a blend of classic elements that combine perfectly with the contemporary, creating sophisticated collections full of metaphors. One of her most distinctive features has been the inclusion of feminist messages in her haute couture and ready-to-wear creations, revealing the power and strength of women, giving voice to issues of gender equality and female emancipation, without ever deviating from her convictions and values, while remaining a champion of social and environmental causes. All of this has been present from her first collection until now. It is also noticeable that the beauty of the female silhouette is once again highlighted on high heels, but now in a way that makes the woman smile for herself and feel unique.
The ready-to-wear collection for this fall celebrates the perfect relationship between Dior and India. At an unprecedented event under the iconic Gateway of India in Mumbai, overlooking the Arabian Sea, Maria Grazia Chiuri showcased the beauty of this country with glamorous details. It was an immersive journey that allowed almost the entire planet to admire the skill and genius that have always enchanted the fashion world but have not always received the recognition they deserve. A total of 99 stunning looks were presented on a runway framed by magnificent floral arrangements surrounded by candles. To the inspirational sounds of live traditional music, the models entered through the imposing archway, richly hand-embroidered by students from the Chanakya School, a non-profit school for women that Chiuri has helped found.
All the pieces featured vibrant colors and intricate embroidery, creating a unique experience as the models passed by. Dior’s most classic silhouettes were also reinvented with micro-embroidery and bold colors, highlighting the meticulous work behind each piece. Cultural references from India were carefully incorporated by the nearly 70-year-old designer, who praised tigers, peacocks and flowers. Precious details were proudly displayed, enhancing the masterful craftsmanship that has always been at the heart of Dior. In this collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled a series of captivating looks that celebrate the experiences and the best of this mystical and wonderful destination. In a vibrant color palette, hypnotically patterned silhouettes combined the shimmering charm of Indian style with the essence of Parisian couture. The result was a celebration of the strong ties between Dior and India.
For her haute couture collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from the work of artist Marta Roberti, transforming the runway into an art gallery inspired by the classical Rome of yesteryear. Colors included white, beige, silver and nude, and vertical silhouettes were paired with almost flat shoes. Structured coats with pleats below the chest evoked classical statues of ancient goddesses. Pearls, evoking purity, were reborn alongside flowing, shimmering textures that added beauty to long skirts and dresses. The stillness of the sacred was almost palpable in the capes. The richness and heaviness of haute couture gave way to lightness, and only by looking closely could one discover the intricate embroidery of metallic threads that added texture to jacquard fabrics.
For 2024, which is already very close, Maria Grazia Chiuri went to Mexico and showed Cruise a collection inspired by the immortal artist at the former San Ildefonso College, a place full of symbolism where Frida Kahlo studied and where she met the artist Diego Rivera. The result was a series of unpretentious pieces that communicated lightness and emotion with a strong sense of personality.
Cotton shirts were tucked neatly into pleated or lace skirts or fell loosely over wide trousers, and sometimes there were embroidered vests or ponchos. The butterfly was also a very present symbol in several pieces, appearing in different forms, such as an imposing necklace, on a monochrome shirt, or even in huge prints to which elements of Mexican fauna and flora were added. This mix of natural and cultural information gave the collection a unique touch. Maria Grazia Chiuri also presented contours that capture the essence of femininity in a unique way, avoiding feminine clichés. The designer showed a series of precision-cut three-piece suits, available in black or white. These unique pieces were a tribute to Frida Kahlo, who wore them from the age of 19, challenging the norms of femininity and, above all, asserting her intellectual independence. The pieces convey the same audacity and boldness that characterized the artist’s life and style. The entire collection conveys a message of emancipation and courage, inviting women to break free from societal restrictions and embrace their true essence.
We are not sure how long we will have to wait to see the collections of this genius designer in Portugal, but we can say that the feminine side of Dior, under the leadership of Maria Grazia Chiuri, has become a beacon of female emancipation in the fashion industry. Since taking the creative reins of the maison, she has inspired future generations to break barriers and pave the way for a more inclusive and equal world. Her legacy will be an ode to the strength and beauty of women, and her revolution at Dior is a powerful reminder that fashion has the power to change lives and shape a new narrative for the future.
