Oscars, Tony Awards and Met Gala are events that require nominees or guests to dress appropriately, and the question “Who are you wearing?” is what presenters and commentators do most on the red carpets. Why? Maybe because a celebrity is built through the brands they decide to wear. It is no coincidence that actress Emma Watson (the famous Hermione from the Harry Potter films) only uses brands that have sustainable designs and that guarantee respect for the environment. It’s a cause she defends, so she chooses the references that align with her.
What you choose to wear on these glamorous nights is also decisive for the impact you have on the audience, with the Met Gala being the place where you can see the boldest bets. Speaking of courage, there is a piece that we currently take for granted, as it has already become recurrent in all collections, be they spring-summer or autumn-winter, but which did not have the same reception when it first appeared. I’m talking precisely about the women’s suit or Le Smoking, named after its great creator – Yves Saint Laurent (YSL). The famous phrase “fashion fades, style is eternal” was used by him to refer to his new creation, defending that “for a woman, a tuxedo is an indispensable piece, as she will always feel in style”. Bearing in mind that Le Smoking is practically 60 years old and is an icon of women’s fashion, we can say that YSL was right. However, it was not always like this. Le Smoking – a suit for the ladies – was launched in 1966, included in the creator’s Pop Art collection. Its name was a tribute to the forerunner of the modern black-tie model – the tuxedo with a silk lapel, purposely designed to protect men’s clothing from cigarette ash in clubs at the end of the 19th century. Inspired by the men’s tuxedo, YSL created a model with a belted cut and a softer collar. Although the origin of its inspiration is not entirely clear, it is believed that the creator used the actress Marlene Dietrich as a reference, more specifically the photograph in which she appears dressed in a tuxedo for the character of her debut film in Hollywood. YSL believed that female sensuality stood out inside a male suit, as that was the only way “would you be able to fight against an outfit that is not yours”.
Le Smoking was a radical statement for the time, as it was unthinkable for a woman to wear trousers to a formal event. Maybe that’s why his regular haute couture customers weren’t pleased, so he only sold a Le Smoking. However, in September 1966, YSL opened its prêt-à-porter boutique, in the area currently known as the chicest in Paris (Rive Gauche or left side of the river), where a more affordable version of Le Smoking was offered for sale and became an almost instant hit with younger, more open-minded customers. However, it took years for something that today we can easily see on display in any shop window to be transversal to the whole of society. Incredibly, until 2013 there was a French law in place that prohibited women from wearing pants. “The symbol of the modern woman”, as Saint Laurent himself said, is still the target of scrutiny, and its presence is only transversal in western societies.
But the more the reaction was adverse, the more the women who loved Le Smoking took courage and defended its use. In 1968, when the socialite Nan Kemper was prevented from entering the La Côte Basque restaurant, in Manhattan, for wearing trousers, she decided to take them off and had dinner with just her coat, wearing it as if it were a dress.
Yves Saint Laurent’s creation from 1966 could perfectly be part of the next autumn-winter collection, which only proves that great designers are, most of the time, visionary artists. “A bit of genius and madness all the time”, says the proverb, but the truth is that it takes, in fact, a bit of madness to bet on an idea that society is not prepared to receive and doesn’t even know what to do with. with her. Le Smoking was much more than a piece of clothing, it was a kind of “cry of freedom” that YSL created for its clients, who sought it out to feel powerful and feminine. His collections were always thought out in detail, always with the sensuality of his muses leading the entire creative process, as was the case with Loulou de la Falaise, who ended up becoming a great friend of the creator.
We forget that the fashion industry is much more than runway shows, creators or models. It is often the greatest proof of personality and manifestation of rebellion that a human being can have. And that’s why I challenge you to look for a women’s collection that doesn’t include a suit. From luxury to ready-to-wear fashion, he’s practically ubiquitous. And it has been the number one choice of some actresses for formal events and/or award ceremonies. We can thank Yves Saint Laurent and his Le Smoking. Thank you, great artist.
By: Cristina Valente
