Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of the Hermès men’s universe, launched her spring-summer 2024 men’s collection for Hermès on the fourth day of the Paris Fashion Week in late June. Characterized by a certain balance and a strong will to travel, it was a fashion show composed of clothes where minimalism reigned supreme, the epitome of quiet luxury, which advocates simplicity and purity in the antipodes of overly flashy aesthetics.
Véronique Nichanian presented her bold vision of the male silhouette, revealing elements that say a lot about the direction of her collection: effortless elegance, uninhibited audacity.
Garments revealed an innovative cut, a caressing texture, the hue of a color or the boldness of layers and volume. Male bodies are free: they dare to wear very short shorts, as well as short jackets and trench coats. On the other hand, they embark on summer adventures with tunics and beach blazers in technical fabric with parasol stripes. They also chose loose knits for the cooler hours and heavy silks for summer nights. Just as light plays with space, creating shadows and tracing patterns, here it caresses skin and reversible leathers; and brings to attention transparencies, subtle layers and the relief effects of materials. The flair of a shirt cut from a twill scarf and the contrasts between silk, cotton, technical fabrics and cashmere.
The color palette is mineral: desert, steam, ice, sage. The colors blend together, responding to and reflecting each other. Everything vibrates harmoniously and softly: the mosaics of number 24, Faubourg Saint-Honoré street, find new expression as openwork motifs; topstitching comes into play; pockets add oblique strokes; leather oscillations make themselves at home on a mesh knit, as do crochet inserts.
Next year’s Hermès men’s summer promises to be serene and joyful, the air is fresh, the allure unmistakably sensual.